Oligopeptides and compositions containing the oligopeptides

ABSTRACT

Oligopeptides according to formula (I) and/or (II), R 1 -Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH 2  (I); R 1 -Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH 2  (II), wherein R 1  is linked to the NH 2 -group of the amino-terminal part of Tyr and is selected from the group consisting of —H; a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be functionalized by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH 2  group; a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is linked to the amino terminal part of Tyr via a bifunctional linker are disclosed. Cosmetic compositions containing the oligopeptides are also disclosed.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATIONS

The present application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. Section 119 ofEuropean Patent Application No. EP05023954.0 filed Nov. 3, 2005 andInternational Application No. PCT/EP2006/010258 filed Oct. 25, 2006, thecontents of which are incorporated by reference herein in theirentireties.

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to the cosmetic use of oligopeptides,among them endomorphin-1and endomorphin-2, cosmetic compositions whichcomprise such oligopeptides as well as certain oligopeptide derivativesthemselves.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic preparations are available nowadays to the consumer in a largenumber of combinations. In this regard, it is not only expected thatthese cosmetics exhibit a particular care effect or overcome a certaindeficiency, but there is an evermore frequent requirement for productswhich have several properties at the same time and thus exhibit animproved performance spectrum. Of particular interest are substanceswhich both favorably influence the technical properties of the cosmeticproduct, such as storage stability, photostability and ability to beformulated, and also at the same time constitute active ingredientswhich confer care, irritation-suppressing and/or photoprotectiveproperties for skin and/or hair for example. Especially, good skincompatibility and particularly good skin compatibility for humans withsensitive skin is of increasing importance.

Sensitive skin is a condition of subjective cutaneous hyperactivity toenvironmental factors or stimuli. Approximately 40% of the populationconsiders themselves to possess the characteristics of sensitive skin.Consumers who perceive their skin as sensitive report exaggeratedreactions when their skin is in contact with cosmetics, soaps andsunscreens, and worsening after exposure to dry, cold or wind climate,to sun or UV irradiation, to polluted environment, to physicaltreatments as depilation, shaving, or to stress. They react withsubjective symptoms like itching, burning, stinging, prickling ortingling.

Mechanistic aspects of sensitive skin are still unclear, but anincreased permeability of the stratum corneum and acceleration of thenerve response in skin are considered to be involved.

Various literature papers address the cosmetic treatment of sensitiveskin. In Parfums Cosmetiques Actualités, 2004, 178, 128-169, C. Chavignyreviewed the different strategy and products to increase the skintolerance threshold, via restoration of the cutaneous barrier and vialimiting the production of the cellular mediators involved in theinflammatory reaction.

The peptides endomorphin-1 (H-Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂) and endomorphin-2(H-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂) are known pharmaceutical agents.

WO 98/42732 (EP 0 994 897) discloses the peptides endomorphine-1(H-Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂) and endomorphine-2 (H-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂) andseveral structural variations and their use in pharmaceuticalcompositions. No cosmetic use is described. No synthetic variants(acetylated forms) are disclosed.

WO 03/020304 (EP1427438) describes pharmaceutical compositionscomprising an endomorphin for use in the treatment or prophylaxis ofinflammation as well as autoimmune disorders such as rheumatoidarthritis, systemic lupus erythematosus, multiple sclerosis, psoriasisor asthma. The endomorphin is selected from natural endomorphins,synthetic endomorphins, endomorphin analogues, endomorphin mimetics,functional fragments of natural endomorphins, functional fragments ofsynthetic endomorphins and endomorphin derivatives. In a preferredembodiment, endomorphin-1 or endomorphin-2 are used. The endomorphinderivatives described are such that are obtained by glycosylation,sulphation or hydroxylation or “any other known modification method forpeptides.” The peptide derivatives of the present invention are notdisclosed nor their cosmetic use.

WO 97/07130 (EP 845003 B1) describes tetra-peptides and tetra-peptidederivatives and their pharmaceutical use in the treatment of pain. Thetetra-peptide always contains either D-Ala or D-Arg. WO 95/22557discloses oligopeptides, among them endomorphine-2 and theirpharmaceutical use in the treatment of pain. U.S. Pat. No. 4,350,627discloses a variety of tetra and penta-peptides and their therapeuticuse.

The object of the present invention was to provide cosmetic compositionswhich are suitably to be used by humans with sensitive skin. In afurther object of the invention, the cosmetic compositions should notonly prevent subjective symptoms of sensitive skin like itching,burning, stinging, prickling or tingling but should also ameliorateexisting symptoms of sensitive skin. It was a further objective of theinvention to provide cosmetic compositions which help relieve sensitiveskin in decreasing subjective cutaneous hyperactivity to environmentalfactors or stimuli and attenuating corresponding skin subjectivesymptoms like itching, burning, stinging, prickling or tingling. It wasa further objective of the invention to provide cosmetic preparationswhich allow the incorporation of known irritating agents such as e.g.alpha-hydroxyl acids or retinol, in cosmetic preparations with the goalto obtain non-irritating compositions, which can thus be safely appliedby humans with sensitive skin.

In addition, the cosmetic formulations should be preferably non-toxicand compatible with the most common cosmetic ingredients.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that oligopeptides according to theinvention satisfy the needs described above.

None of the documents of the prior art describe oligopeptides of theinvention nor the cosmetic use of the claimed oligopeptides. None of thedocuments describes oligopeptides which can be used on sensitive skin.

BRIEF SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention is directed to a composition suitable for use incosmetic applications, which composition comprises an oligopeptideaccording to formula (I) and/or (II) of:

R₁-Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂  (I)

R₁-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂  (II)

-   -   wherein R₁ is linked to the NH₂-group of the amino-terminal        portion of Tyr and is selected from the group consisting of:        -   a) —H;        -   b) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated            or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which            acyl group can be functionalized by a —OH, —SH, —COOH            or—CONH₂ group; and        -   c) a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is linked to the            amino terminal portion of Tyr by a bifunctional linker.

Accordingly, the invention is directed to the cosmetic use ofoligopeptides according to R₁-[SEQ ID NO:1] and/or R₁-[SEQ ID NO:2],wherein R₁ has the above-described meaning.

It has been found that the oligopeptides according to the inventionpossess good cosmetic properties due to their soothing and caressingproperties.

It has also been found that the oligopeptides according to the inventionare suitable for the preparation of compositions for treating sensitiveskin.

Thus, another aspect of the present invention is a cosmetic compositionwhich comprises:

1) an oligopeptide according to formula (I) and/or (II) of:

R₁-Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂  (I)

R₁-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂  (II)

-   -   wherein R₁ is linked to the NH₂-group of the amino-terminal        portion of Tyr and is selected from the group consisting of:        -   a) —H;        -   b) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated            or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which            acyl group can be functionalized by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or            —CONH₂ group; and        -   c) a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is linked to the            amino terminal portion of Tyr by a bifunctional linker;

2) a cosmetic agent; and

3) optionally, an additive or auxiliary suitable for use in a cosmeticcomposition.

It has also been found that the oligopeptides according to the inventioncan be used in cosmetic compositions which contain known irritatingcosmetic agents. Surprisingly, it has been found that the irritatingpotential of these known irritating cosmetic agents is reduced by theoligopeptides according to the invention.

Thus, a further embodiment of the invention is directed to cosmeticcompositions comprising at least one oligopeptide according to formula(I) and/or formula (II) and at least one cosmetic agent selected fromthe group consisting of alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids andretinoids.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

Cosmetic Agent

The cosmetic agent can be an alpha-hydroxy acid. Suitable is anycosmetically acceptable alpha-hydroxy acid, salts thereof and estersthereof. Preferably, alpha-hydroxy acids are chosen wherein thealpha-hydroxy acid is selected from C2 to C12 alpha hydroxyl acids andsalts thereof and esters thereof with a C2 to C24, preferably C14 to C22alcohol.

The cosmetic agent can be a beta-hydroxy acid. Suitable is anycosmetically acceptable beta-hydroxy acid, salts thereof and estersthereof. Preferably, beta-hydroxy acids are chosen wherein thebeta-hydroxy acid is selected from C2 to C12 beta-hydroxyl acids andsalts thereof and esters thereof with a C2 to C24, preferably C14 to C22alcohol.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the alpha-hydroxy orbeta-hydroxy acid or salt or ester thereof is used, wherein the acid ispreferably chosen from the group consisting of lactic acid, citric acid,glycolic acid, gentisic acid, salicylic acid, gluconic acid and heptonicacid.

The cosmetic agent can be a retinoid. Suitable retinoids according tothe invention can be chosen from the group consisting of retinol,retinal, retinoic acid, retinyl acetate, retinyl palmitate and retinylascorbate.

R₁ Moiety

The amino-terminal part of Tyr is linked via R₁. R₁ is selected from thegroup consisting of:

-   -   a) —H    -   b) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or        unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, which may be        functionalized by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH₂ group, or    -   c) a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is linked to the amino        terminal part of Tyr via a bifunctional linker.

In one embodiment, the amino terminal is not substituted but consists ofan amino group. It is within the scope of the invention that, in caseR₁=H, the oligopeptide of the invention can be protonated, and bepresent as salt, e.g. as chloride, bromide, fluoride or iodide.

In a preferred embodiment, the oligopeptide according to the inventionis endomorphin-1 [Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂] and/or endomorphin-2[Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂].

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, R₁ is a linear saturated orunsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to24 carbon atoms, having 1 to 4, preferably 1 to 6, preferably 1 to 12,preferably 10 to 20, more preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms. In oneembodiment of the invention, the acyl group has ≦12, ≦11, ≦10, ≦9, ≦8,≦7, ≦6, ≦5, ≦4, ≦3, ≦2 carbon atoms.

The radical R_(i) is preferably selected from the group which is formedby acetyl (CH₃—CO—), ethanoyl (CH₃—CH₂—CO—), propionyl, butanoyl(=butyryl; CH₃—(CH₂)₂—CO—), decanoyl, palmitoyl (CH₃—(CH₂)₁₄—CO—),stearoyl (CH₃—(CH₂)₁₆—CO—), oleyl, lipoyl, linoleyl or conjugatedlinoleyl; and particularly preferred is acetyl.

Thus, in an especially preferred embodiment of the invention, theoligopeptide according to formula (I) is N-Acetyl-Tyr- Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂ aand/or N-Acteyl-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂.

In one embodiment of the invention, the acyl group can be furtherfunctionalized by one or more of the functional groups selected from thegroup consisting of —OH, —SH, —COOH and —CONH₂.

In one embodiment of the invention, R₁ is a sterol group. The sterolgroup can be selected from a plant sterol or from a sterol of animalorigin.

Sterols in the context of the invention are steroids which only containa hydroxyl group but no other functional groups at C-3. Formally,therefore, they are alcohols which is why this group of compounds isalso referred to occasionally as sterols. In general, sterols containfrom about 27 to about 30 carbon atoms and one double bond in the 5/6position and occasionally in the 7/8, 8/9 or other positions. Sterolswhich may be used for the purposes of the invention are those obtainedfrom natural products such as, for example, soya, rapeseed, sunflower,coconut, palm kernel and palm oil. Preferred sterols are sigmasterol,campesterol, sitosterol, brassicasterols, stigmasterol, D5 avenasterol,D7 avenasterol, ergosterol, citrostadienol, cholesterol, lanosterols,spongosterols, fungisterols, stellasterols, zymosterols and mixturesthereof and, more particularly, phytosterols based on ergosterols,avenasterols (D5 and D7 avenasterol), campesterols, stigmasterols,sitosterols, brassicasterols, citrosdandiols, sigmastandiols andmixtures thereof. Any other phytosterol known to the expert may also beused.

in a preferred embodiment, the sterol group is selected from the groupconsisting of cholesterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol, or brassicasterol.

In another embodiment, R₁ is a sphingolipid, preferably selected fromthe group consisting of sphingosine, phytosphingosine,dehydrosphingosine or deshydrophytosphingosine.

The sterol or the sphingolipid is linked to the oligopeptide using abifunctional linker such as a diacid, for example succinic acid. Thesterol hydroxyl group at C-3 can be linked via an ester bond to thebifunctional linker, which can be linked via an amide bond to theamino-terminal part of Tyr. The sphingolipid amino group at C-1 can belinked via an amide bond to the bifunctional linker, which can be linkedvia an amide bond to the amino-terminal part of Tyr.

The terms “oligopeptide” and “oligopeptides” are used synonymously toencompass single oligopeptide species of formula (I) and/or (II) as wellas mixtures of at least 2, at least 3, or more oligopeptides accordingto formula (I) and/or (II) as well as mixtures of at least one singlespecies of formula (I) with at least one single species of formula (II).In case where R₁ is not ═H, the term “oligopeptide derivative” would bea more precise term. As used in this description, the term“oligopeptide” or “oligopeptides” encompasses oligopeptides as well asoligopeptide derivatives, as well as salts of the oligopeptides and ofthe oligopeptide derivatives. Such suitable salts include sodium- orpotassium-salts.

The amino acids can either occur in the L, the D, or the DL form in thepeptide fragment. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aminoacids are all in L form.

Synthesis of Oligopeptides

The oligopeptides according to the invention can be obtained by chemicalor enzymatic synthesis. They can also be obtained by controlledhydrolysis of natural proteins of microorganisms, plants or animalswhich contain the oligopeptides or precursors of the oligopeptides (e.g.endomorphine-1 or endomorphine-2) according to the invention.

The either chemically or enzymatically obtained endomorphine-1 orendomorphine-2 can then be further derivatized (e.g. acetylated) byknown chemical or enzymatic techniques to obtain the oligopeptidesaccording to the invention.

The oligopeptides can also be produced by microorganisms, which eithernaturally form the oligopeptides, or have possibly been geneticallymodified or are manipulated in some other way during fermentationthrough fermentation conditions such that they form the oligopeptidesaccording to the invention.

In case the oligopeptides (or their precursors) are obtained byhydrolysis of proteins, the thus obtained oligopeptides may be usedcrude, or may be further purified by known techniques (membranefiltration, chromatography, immuno-precipitation) to obtain the desiredoligopeptides.

Cosmetic Compositions Comprising Oligopeptides

Another embodiment of the invention is directed to cosmetic compositionscomprising at least one oligopeptide according to formula (I) and/or(II).

The oligopeptides are preferably used in a concentration of from about0.001 to 1000 ppm, preferably 0.05 to 500 ppm, more preferably from 0.5to 100 ppm.

The oligopeptides are preferably dissolved or solubilized in one or moresolvents which are approved for cosmetic preparations, such as, forexample, water, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentyleneglycol, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, ethanol, propanol,isopropanol or mixtures of said solvents. Furthermore, it is possible touse the oligopeptides solubilized in liposomes or adsorbed to organicpolymers, or mineral supports or similar material which is acceptablefor topical application.

Besides the solvents, further auxiliaries and additives may also bepresent in the preparations which are used according to the invention.

Cosmetic Compositions

The oligopeptides and the cosmetic uses according to the invention aresuitable for use in making cosmetic compositions, such as, for example,hair shampoos, hair lotions, foam baths, shower baths, creams, gels,lotions, alcoholic and aqueous/alcoholic solutions, emulsions, wax/fatmasses, stick preparations, powders or ointments. These compositions canalso comprise, as further auxiliaries and additives, mild surfactants,oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, consistency regulators,thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, polymers, siliconecompounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, UV photoprotectivefactors, biogenic active ingredients, antioxidants, deodorants,antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents,insect repellents, self-tanning agents, tyrosine inhibitors(depigmentation agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, preservatives,perfume oils, dyes and the like.

Surfactants

Surface-active substances which may be present are anionic, nonionic,cationic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the content ofwhich in the compositions is usually about 1 to 70% by weight,preferably 5 to 50% by weight and in particular 10 to 30% by weight.Typical examples of anionic surfactants are soaps,alkylbenzenesulphonates, alkanesulphonates, olefinsulphonates, alkylether sulphonates, glycerol ether sulphonates, α-methyl estersulphonates, sulpho fatty acids, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates,glycerol ether sulphates, fatty acid ether sulphates, hydroxy mixedether sulphates, monoglyceride (ether) sulphates, fatty acid amide(ether) sulphates, mono- and dialkyl sulphosuccinates, mono- and dialkylsulphosuccinamates, sulphotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylicacids and salts thereof, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acidsarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, N-acylaminoacids, such as, forexample, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates and acylaspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulphates, protein fatty acidcondensates (in particular wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl(ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants comprise polyglycol etherchains, these can have a conventional homologue distribution, butpreferably have a narrowed homologue distribution. Typical examples ofnonionic surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers, alkylphenolpolyglycol ethers, fatty acid polyglycol esters, fatty acid amidepolyglycol ethers, fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkoxylatedtriglycerides, mixed ethers and mixed formals, optionally partiallyoxidized alk(en)yl oligoglycosides and glucoronic acid derivatives,fatty acid N-alkylglucamides, protein hydrolysates (in particularwheat-based vegetable products), polyol fatty acid esters, sugar esters,sorbitan esters, polysorbates and amine oxides. If the nonionicsurfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these can have aconventional homologue distribution, but preferably have a narrowedhomologue distribution. Typical examples of cationic surfactants arequaternary ammonium compounds, such as, for example,dimethyldistearylammonium chloride, and ester quats, in particularquaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts. Typical examples ofamphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines,alkylamidobetaines, aminopropionates, aminoglycinates,imidazoliniumbetaines and sulphobetaines. The specified surfactants areexclusively known compounds. Typical examples of particularly suitablemild, i.e. particularly skin-compatible, surfactants are fatty alcoholpolyglycol ether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, mono- and/ordialkyl sulphosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acidsarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates,α-olefinsulphonates, ether carboxylic acids, alkyl oligoglucosides,fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines, amphoacetals and/or proteinfatty acid condensates, the latter preferably being based on wheatproteins.

Oil Bodies

Suitable oil bodies are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fattyalcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters oflinear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acids with linear or branched C₆-C₂₂ fatty alcoholsand/or esters of branched C₆-C₁₃-carboxylic acids with linear orbranched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristylmyristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate,myristyl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate,cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetylbehenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl myristate, stearyl palmitate, stearylstearate, stearyl isostearate, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, stearylerucate, isostearyl myristate, isostearyl palmitate, isostearylstearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl oleate, isostearylbehenate, isostearyl oleate, oleyl myristate, oleyl palmitate, oleylstearate, oleyl isostearate, oleyl oleate, oleyl behenate, oleylerucate, behenyl myristate, behenyl palmitate, behenyl stearate, behenylisostearate, behenyl oleate, behenyl behenate, behenyl erucate, erucylmyristate, erucyl palmitate, erucyl stearate, erucyl isostearate, erucyloleate, erucyl behenate and erucyl erucate. Also suitable are esters oflinear C₆-C₂₂-fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular2-ethylhexanol, esters of C₁₈-C₃₈-alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids withlinear or branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols (cf. DE 19756377 A1), inparticular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and/or branched fatty acidswith polyhydric alcohols (such as, for example, propylene glycol,dimerdiol or trimertriol) and/or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides basedon C₆-C₁₀-fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based onC₆-C₂₂-fatty acids, esters of C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcohols and/or Guerbetalcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid,esters of C₂-C₁₂-dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcoholshaving 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols having 2 to 10 carbon atoms and 2to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols,substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C₆-C₂₂-fatty alcoholcarbonates, such as, for example, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC),Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8to 10, carbon atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and/or branchedC₆-C₂₂-alcohols (e.g. Finsolv® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical orunsymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkylgroup, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol® OE), ring-openingproducts of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils(cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, inter alia) and/or aliphaticor naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene ordialkylcyclohexanes.

Emulsifiers

Suitable emulsifiers are, for example, nonionic surfactants from atleast one of the following groups:

-   -   addition products of from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and/or 0        to 5 mol of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to        22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, to        alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and        alkylamines having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical;    -   alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms        in the alk(en)yl radical and the ethoxylated analogues thereof;    -   addition products of from 1 to 15 mol of ethylene oxide to        castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   addition products of from 15 to 60 mol of ethylene oxide to        castor oil and/or hydrogenated castor oil;    -   partial esters of glycerol and/or sorbitan with unsaturated,        linear or saturated, branched fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon        atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18 carbon        atoms, and the adducts thereof with 1 to 30 mol of ethylene        oxide;    -   partial esters of polyglycerol (average degree of        self-condensation 2 to 8), polyethylene glycol (molecular weight        400 to 5 000), trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, sugar        alcohols (e.g. sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (e.g. methyl        glucoside, butyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside), and        polyglucosides (e.g. cellulose) with saturated and/or        unsaturated, linear or branched fatty acids having 12 to 22        carbon atoms and/or hydroxycarboxylic acids having 3 to 18        carbon atoms, and the adducts thereof with 1 to 30 mol of        ethylene oxide;    -   mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and        fatty alcohol and/or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22        carbon atoms, methylglucose and polyols, preferably glycerol or        polyglycerol,    -   mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates, and mono-, di- and/or        tri-PEG alkyl phosphates and salts thereof;    -   wool wax alcohols;    -   polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers and corresponding        derivatives;    -   block copolymers, e.g. polyethylene glycol-30        dipolyhydroxystearates;    -   polymer emulsifiers, e.g. Pemulen grades (TR-1, TR-2) from        Goodrich;    -   polyalkylene glycols, and    -   glycerol carbonate.    -   Ethylene Oxide Addition Products        -   The addition products of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene            oxide to fatty alcohols, fatty acids, alkylphenols or to            castor oil are known, commercially available products. These            are homologue mixtures whose average degree of alkoxylation            corresponds to the ratio of the amounts of substance of            ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide and substrate with            which the addition reaction is carried out. C_(12/18)-fatty            acid mono- and diesters of addition products of ethylene            oxide to glycerol are known as refatting agents for cosmetic            preparations.    -   Alkyl and/or Alkenyl Oligoglycosides        -   Alkyl and/or alkenyl oligoglycosides, their preparation and            their use are known from the prior art. They are prepared,            in particular, by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with            primary alcohols having 8 to 18 carbon atoms. With regard to            the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides, in which a            cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically bonded to the fatty            alcohol, and also oligomeric glycosides having a degree of            oligomerization of up to, preferably, about 8, are suitable.            The degree of oligomerization here is a statistical average            value which is based on a homologue distribution customary            for such technical-grade products.    -   Partial Glycerides        -   Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are            hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid            diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isostearic acid            diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid            diglyceride, ricinoleic acid monoglyceride, ricinoleic acid            diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid            diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid            diglyceride, erucic add monoglyceride, erucic acid            diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid            diglyceride, citric acid monoglyceride, citric acid            diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid            diglyceride, and the technical-grade mixtures thereof which            may also comprise small amounts of triglyceride as a minor            product of the preparation process. Likewise suitable are            addition products of 1 to 30 mol, preferably 5 to 10 mol, of            ethylene oxide to said partial glycerides.    -   Sorbitan Esters        -   Suitable sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate,            sorbitan sesquiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan            triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate,            sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate,            sorbitan sesquierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan            trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan            sesquiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan            triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan            sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan            trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan            sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate,            sorbitan monocitrate, sorbitan sesquicitrate, sorbitan            dicitrate, sorbitan tricitrate, sorbitan monomaleate,            sorbitan sesquimaleate, sorbitan dimaleate, sorbitan            trimaleate, and technical-grade mixtures thereof. Likewise            suitable are addition products of from 1 to 30 mol,            preferably 5 to 10 mol, of ethylene oxide to said sorbitan            esters.    -   Polyglycerol Esters        -   Typical examples of suitable polyglycerol esters are            polyglyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH),            polyglycerol-3 diisostearate (Lameform® TGI), polyglyceryl-4            isostearate (Isolan® GI 34), polyglyceryl-3 oleate,            diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate (Isolan® PDI),            polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate (Tego Care® 450),            polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (Cera Bellina®), polyglyceryl-4            caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), polyglyceryl-3            cetyl ether (Chimexane® NL), polyglyceryl-3 distearate            (Cremophor® GS 32) and polyglyceryl polyricinoleate (Admul®            WOL1403), polyglyceryl dimerate isostearate, and mixtures            thereof. Examples of further suitable polyol esters are the            mono-, di- and triesters, optionally reacted with 1 to 30            mol of ethylene oxide, of trimethylolpropane or            pentaerythritol with lauric acid, coconut fatty acid, tallow            fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic            acid and the like.    -   Anionic Emulsifiers        -   Typical anionic emulsifiers are aliphatic fatty acids having            12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, palmitic acid,            stearic acid or behenic acid, and dicarboxylic acids having            12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, azelaic acid or            sebacic acid.    -   Amphoteric and Cationic Emulsifiers        -   Furthermore, zwitterionic surfactants can be used as            emulsifiers. The term “zwitterionic surfactants” refers to            those surface-active compounds which carry at least one            quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate and            one sulphonate group in the molecule. Particularly suitable            zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines, such as            N-alkyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example            cocoalkyldimethylammonium glycinate,            N-acylaminopropyl-N,N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for            example cocoacylaminopropyldimethylammonium glycinate, and            2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxy-ethylimidazolines having            in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl            group, and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethyl            glycinate. Particular preference is given to the fatty acid            amide derivative known under the CTFA name Cocamidopropyl            Betaine. Likewise suitable emulsifiers are ampholytic            surfactants. The term “ampholyte surfactants” means those            surface-active compounds which, apart from a C_(8/18)-alkyl            or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at            least one —COOH or —SO₃H group in the molecule and are            capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable            ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines,            N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids,            N-alkyliminodipropionic acids,            N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines,            N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and            alkylaminoacetic acids having in each case about 8 to 18            carbon atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred            ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate,            cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and            C_(12/18)-acylsarcosine. Finally, cationic surfactants are            also suitable as emulsifiers, those of the ester quat type,            preferably methyl-quaternized difatty acid triethanolamine            ester salts, being particularly preferred.

Fats and Waxes

Typical examples of fats are glycerides, i.e. solid or liquid vegetableor animal products which consist essentially of mixed glycerol esters ofhigher fatty acids, suitable waxes are inter alia natural waxes, suchas, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, esparto grasswax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, ouricurywax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax),uropygial grease, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffinwaxes, microcrystalline waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes),such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenatedjojoba waxes, and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, polyalkylenewaxes and polyethylene glycol waxes. In addition to the fats, suitableadditives are also fat-like substances, such as lecithins andphospholipids. The term lecithins is understood by the person skilled inthe art as meaning those glycerophospholipids which are founded fromfatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification.Lecithins are thus also often as phosphatidylcholines (PC) in thespecialist world. Examples of natural lecithins which may be mentionedare the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids andconstitute derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. Bycontrast, phospholipids are usually understood as meaning mono- andpreferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerolphosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition,sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

Pearlescent Waxes

Examples of suitable pearlescent waxes are: alkylene glycol esters,specifically ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides,specifically coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides,specifically stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionallyhydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols having 6 to 22carbon atoms, specifically long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fattysubstances, such as, for example, fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fattyaldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of atleast 24 carbon atoms, specifically laurone and distearyl ether; fattyacids, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic acid,ring-opening products of olefin epoxides having 12 to 22 carbon atomswith fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols having 2to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and mixtures thereof.

Consistency Regulators and Thickeners

Suitable consistency regulators are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols having 12 to 22, and preferably 16 to 18, carbon atoms,and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids.Preference is given to a combination of these substances with alkyloligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of identical chainlength and/or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates. Suitable thickenersare, for example, Aerosil grades (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides,in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses,carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose andhydroxypropylcellulose, and also relatively high molecular weightpolyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates(e.g. Carbopols® and Pemulen grades from Goodrich; Synthalens® fromSigma; Keltrol grades from Kelco; Sepigel grades from Seppic; Salcaregrades from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinylalcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone. Bentonites, such as, for example,Bentone® Gel VS 5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane,disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate, have also proven tobe particularly effective. Also suitable are surfactants, such as, forexample, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids withpolyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane,fatty alcohol ethoxylates having a narrowed homologue distribution oralkyl oligoglucosides, and electrolytes such as sodium chloride andammonium chloride.

Superfatting Agents

Superfatting agents which can be used are substances such as, forexample, lanolin and lecithin, and polyethoxylated oracylated lanolinand lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides andfatty acid alkanolamides, the latter also serving as foam stabilizers.

Stabilizers

Stabilizers which can be used are metal salts of fatty acids, such as,for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate.

Polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulosederivatives, such as, for example, a quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloseobtainable under the name Polymer JR 400® from Amerchol, cationicstarch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternizedvinylpyrrolidone-vinylimidazole polymers, such as, for example,Luviquat® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines,quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as, for example, lauryldimoniumhydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lamequat®L/Grünau), quaternized wheatpolypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers, such as,for example, amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid anddimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretins®/Sandoz),copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride(Merquat® 550/Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides, as described, forexample, in FR 2252840 A, and crosslinked water-soluble polymersthereof, cationic chitin derivatives, such as, for example, quaternizedchitosan, optionally in microcrystalline dispersion, condensationproducts from dihaloalkyls, such as, for example, dibromobutane withbisdialkylamines, such as, for example, bisdimethylamino-1,3-propane,cationic guar gum, such as, for example, Jaguar® CBS, Jaguar® C-17,Jaguar® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as,for example, Mirapol® A-15, Mirapol® AD-1, Mirapol® AZ-1 from Miranol.

Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are,for example, vinyl acetate-crotonic acid copolymers,vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate-butylmaleate-isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether-maleicanhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked polyacrylic acidsand polyacrylic acids crosslinked with polyols,acrylamido-propyltrimethylammonium chloride-acrylate copolymers,octylacrylamide-methyl methacrylate-tert-butylaminoethylmethacrylate-2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers,polyvinylpyrrolidone, vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers,vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate-vinylcaprolactamterpolymers, and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones.

Silicone compounds

Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes,methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones, and amino-, fatty acid-,alcohol-, polyether-, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and/oralkyl-modified silicone compounds, which can either be liquid or inresin form at room temperature. Also suitable are simethicones, whichare mixtures of dimethicones having an average chain length of from 200to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

UV Photoprotective Filters

UV photoprotective factors are, for example, to be understood as meaningorganic substances (photoprotective filters) which are liquid orcrystalline at room temperature and which are able to absorb ultravioletrays and give off the absorbed energy again in the form oflonger-wavelength radiation, e.g. heat. UVB filters can be oil-solubleor water-soluble. Examples of oil-soluble substances are:

-   -   3-benzylidenecamphor or 3-benzylidenenorcamphor and derivatives        thereof, e.g. 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene)camphor;    -   4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl        4-(dimethylamino)benzoate, 2-octyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate and        amyl 4-(dimethylamino)benzoate;    -   esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl        4-methoxycinnamate, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl        4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate        (octocrylene);    -   esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate,        4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate;    -   derivatives of benzophenone, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone,        2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4′-methylbenzophenone,        2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone;    -   esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl        4-methoxybenzalmalonate;    -   triazine derivatives, such as, for example,        2,4,6-trianilino(p-carbo-2′-ethyl-1′-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazine        and octyltriazone or dioctylbutamidotriazone (Uvasorb® HEB);    -   propane-1,3-diones, such as, for example,        1-(4-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione;    -   ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decane derivatives.

Suitable water-soluble substances are:

-   -   2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and the alkali metal,        alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium        and glucammonium salts thereof;    -   sulphonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably        2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid and its salts;    -   sulphonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidenecamphor, such as, for        example, 4-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl)benzenesulphonic acid and        2-methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidene)sulphonic acid and salts        thereof.

Suitable typical UV-A filters are, in particular, derivatives ofbenzoylmethane, such as, for example,1-(4′-tert-butylphenyl)-3-(4′-methoxyphenyl)propane-1,3-dione,4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol® 1789),1-phenyl-3-(4′-isopropylphenyl)propane-1,3-dione, and enamine compounds.The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures.Particularly favourable combinations consist of the derivatives ofbenzoylmethane, e.g. 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol®1789) and 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene) incombination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl4-methoxycinnamate and/or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and/or isoamyl4-methoxycinnamate. Advantageously, such combinations are combined withwater-soluble filters such as, for example,2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid and their alkali metal, alkalineearth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammoniumsalts.

As well as said soluble substances, insoluble light protection pigments,namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable forthis purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zincoxide and titanium dioxide and also oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon,manganese, aluminium and cerium, and mixtures thereof. Salts which maybe used are silicates (talc), barium sulphate or zinc stearate. Theoxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skincare andskin-protective emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles hereshould have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have aspherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have anellipsoidal shape or a shape deviating in some other way from thespherical form. The pigments can also be surface-treated, i.e.hydrophilicized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titaniumdioxides, such as, for example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) orEusolex® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are hereprimarily silicones and, specifically in this case,trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. In sunscreens, preference isgiven to using so-called micro- or nanopigments. Preference is given tousing micronized zinc oxide.

Biogenic Active Ingredients and Antioxidants

Biogenic active ingredients are understood as meaning, for example,tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid,(deoxy)ribonucleic acid and fragmentation products thereof, β-glucans,retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, aminoacids, ceramides, pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, suchas, for example, prunus extract, bambara nut extract and vitamincomplexes.

Antioxidants interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which istriggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examplesthereof are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan)and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and derivativesthereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine andderivatives thereof (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes(e.g.α-carotene, (β-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof,chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, lipoic acid and derivativesthereof (e.g. dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil andother thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine,cystamine and the glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyland lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glycerylesters thereof) and salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearylthiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters,ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts), andsulphoximine compounds (e.g. buthionine sulphoximines, homocysteinesulphoximine, buthionine sulphones, penta-, hexa-, heptathioninesulphoximine) in very low tolerated doses (e.g. pmol to μmol/kg), andalso (metal) chelating agents (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmiticacid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid,lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts,bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and derivatives thereof, unsaturatedfatty acids and derivatives thereof (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleicacid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, ubiquinone andubiquinol and derivatives thereof, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g.ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate),tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A andderivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and coniferyl benzoate of gumbenzoin, rutic acid and derivatives thereof, α-glycosylrutin, ferulicacid, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene,butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid,trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose andderivatives thereof, superoxide dismutase, zinc and derivatives thereof(e.g. ZnO, ZnSO₄) selenium and derivatives thereof (e.g.selenomethionine), stilbenes and derivatives thereof (e.g. stilbeneoxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, esters, ethers,sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of said activeingredients which are suitable according to the invention.

Deodorants and Antimicrobial Agents

Cosmetic deodorants counteract, mask or remove body odors. Body odorsarise as a result of the effect of skin bacteria on apocrineperspiration, with the formation of degradation products which have anunpleasant odor. Accordingly, deodorants comprise active ingredientswhich act as antimicrobial agents, enzyme inhibitors, odor absorbers orodor masking agents.

-   -   Antimicrobial Agents        -   Suitable antimicrobial agents are, in principle, all            substances effective against gram-positive bacteria, such            as, for example, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and            esters, N-(4-chlorophenyl)-N′-(3,4-dichlorophenyl)urea,            2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether (triclosan),            4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol,            2,2′-methylenebis(6-bromo4-chlorophenol),            3-methyl-4-(1-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol,            3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-1,2-propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl            butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4′-trichlorocarbanilide            (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol,            oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil, farnesol, phenoxyethanol,            glycerol monocaprate, glycerol monocaprylate, glycerol            monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprate (DMC), salicylic            acid N-alkylamides, such as, for example,            N-octylsalicylamide or N-decylsalicylamide.    -   Enzyme Inhibitors        -   Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase            inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as            trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate,            tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate            (Hydagen® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity,            thereby reducing the formation of odor. Other substances            which are suitable esterase inhibitors are sterol sulphates            or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol,            cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol            sulphate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters            thereof, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl            glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl            adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate,            hydroxycarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for            example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl            tartrate, and zinc glycinate.    -   Odor Absorbers        -   Suitable odor absorbers are substances which are able to            absorb and largely retain odor-forming compounds. They lower            the partial pressure of the individual components, thus also            reducing their rate of diffusion. It is important that in            this process perfumes must remain unimpaired. Odor absorbers            are not effective against bacteria. They comprise, for            example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt of            ricinoleic acid or specific, largely odor-neutral fragrances            which are known to the person skilled in the art as            “fixatives”, such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or            styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. The odor masking            agents are fragrances or perfume oils, which, in addition to            their function as odor masking agents, give the deodorants            their respective fragrance note. Perfume oils which may be            mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and            synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from            flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots,            woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, and resins            and balsams. Also suitable are animal raw materials, such            as, for example, civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic            fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether,            aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type. Fragrance            compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl            acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate,            phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl            cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl            salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl            ether, and the aldehydes include, for example, the linear            alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,            citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde,            hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, the ketones            include, for example, the ionones and methyl cedryl ketone,            the alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol,            isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and            terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include mainly the terpenes            and balsams. Preference is, however, given to using mixtures            of different fragrances which together produce a pleasing            fragrance note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility,            which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable            as perfume oils, e.g. sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves,            melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom            oil, juniper berry oil, vetiveroil, olibanum oil, galbanum            oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil, Preference is given to            using bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral,            citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde,            geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool,            boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice,            lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amyl glycolate,            cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, β-damascone,            geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur,            iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma,            phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose            oxide, romilat, irotyl and floramat alone or in mixtures.    -   Antiperspirants        -   Antiperspirants reduce the formation of perspiration by            influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands, thus            counteracting underarm wetness and body odor. Aqueous or            anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically comprise            the following ingredients:        -   astringent active ingredients,        -   oil components,        -   nonionic emulsifiers,        -   coemulsifiers,        -   consistency regulators,        -   auxiliaries, such as, for example, thickeners or complexing            agents and/or        -   nonaqueous solvents, such as, for example, ethanol,            propylene glycol and/or glycerol.    -   Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are        primarily salts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc. Such        suitable antihydrotic active ingredients are, for example,        aluminium chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium        dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichiorohydrate and complex        compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2-propylene glycol, aluminium        hydroxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium        zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium        tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and        complex compounds thereof, e.g. with amino acids, such as        glycine. In addition, customary oil-soluble and water-soluble        auxiliaries may be present in antiperspirants in relatively        small amounts. Such oil-soluble auxiliaries may, for example,        be:        -   anti-inflammatory, skin-protective or perfumed essential            oils,        -   synthetic skin-protective active ingredients and/or        -   oil-soluble perfume oils.    -   Customary water-soluble additives are, for example,        preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH regulators, e.g.        buffer mixtures, water-soluble thickeners, e.g. water-soluble        natural or synthetic polymers, such as, for example, xanthan        gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, polyvinylpyrrolidone or high        molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

Film Formers

Customary film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystallinechitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone,vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acidseries, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid andsalts thereof, and similar compounds.

Antidandruff Active Ingredients

Suitable antidandruff active ingredients are piroctone olamine(1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4-trimythylpentyl)-2-(1H)-pyridinonemonoethanolamine salt), Baypival® (climbazole), Ketoconazole®,(4-acetyl-1-{-4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl)r-2-(1H-imidazol-1-ylmethyl)-1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl}piperazine,ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulphide, sulphur colloidal, sulphurpolyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulphur ricinolepolyethoxylate, sulphur tar distillates, salicylic acid (or incombination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamidesulphosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon® UD (protein undecylenic acidcondensate), zinc pyrithione, aluminium pyrithione and magnesiumpyrithione/dipyrithione magnesium sulphate.

Swelling Agents

The swelling agents for aqueous phases may be montmorillonites, claymineral substances, Pemulen, and alkyl-modified Carbopol grades(Goodrich). Other suitable polymers and swelling agents are given in thereview by R. Lochhead in Cosm. Toll. 108, 95 (1993).

Insect Repellents

Suitable insect repellents are N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediolor ethyl butylacetylaminopropionate.

Self-Tanning Agents and Depigmentation Agents

A suitable self-tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone. Suitable tyrosineinhibitors, which prevent the formation of melanin and are used indepigmentation agents, are, for example, arbutin, ferulic acid, kojicacid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (vitamin C).

Hydrotropic Agents

To improve the flow behavior, it is also possible to use hydrotropicagents, such as, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol, or polyols.Polyols which are suitable here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms andat least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain furtherfunctional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified withnitrogen. Typical examples are

-   -   glycerol;    -   alkylene glycols, such as, for example, ethylene glycol,        diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene        glycol, and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular        weight of from 100 to 1 000 daltons;    -   technical-grade oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of        self-condensation of from 1.5 to 10, such as, for example,        technical-grade diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of        from 40 to 50% by weight;    -   methylol compounds, such as, in particular, trimethylolethane,        trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and        dipentaerythritol;    -   lower alkyl glucosides, in particular those having 1 to 8 carbon        atoms in the alkyl radical, such as, for example, methyl and        butyl glucoside;    -   sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for        example, sorbitol or mannitol;    -   sugars having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as, for example,        glucose or sucrose;    -   amino sugars, such as, for example, glucamine;    -   dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or        2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

Preservatives

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxy ethanol, formaldehydesolution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid, and the silver complexesknown under the name Surfacins®, and also the other classes of substancelisted in Annex 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Directive.

Perfume Oils and Aromas

Perfume oils which may be mentioned are mixtures of natural andsynthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers(lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves(geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, cumin,juniper), fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (mace, angelica,celery, cardamon, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood,guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon,lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine,dwarf-pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh,olibanum, opoponax). Also suitable are animal raw materials, such as,for example, civet and castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compoundsare products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol andhydrocarbon type. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, forexample, benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate,p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate,ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example,benzyl ethyl ether, the aldehydes include, for example, the linearalkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal,citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal,lilial and bourgeonal, and the ketones include, for example, theionones, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, the alcoholsinclude anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool,phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, and the hydrocarbons include mainlythe terpenes and balsams. Preference is, however, given to usingmixtures of different fragrances which together produce a pleasingfragrance note. Essential oils of relatively low volatility, which aremostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, e.g.sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamonleaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanumoil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preference is givento using beigamotoil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol,phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone,cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, ambroxan, indole,hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allyl amylglycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, clary sage oil, β-damascone,geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix coeur,iso-E-super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid,geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotyl andfloramat alone or in mixtures.

Suitable aromas are, for example, peppermint oil, spearmint oil, aniseoil, star anise oil, caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil,wintergreen oil, oil of cloves, menthol and the like.

Dyes

Dyes which can be used are the substances which are approved andsuitable for cosmetic purposes, as are summarized, for example, in thepublication “Kosmetische Färbemitter” [Cosmetic Colorants] from theFarbstoffkommission der Deutschen Forschungsgemeinschaft [DyesCommission of the German Research Council], Verlag Chemie, Weinheim,1984, pp. 81-106. Examples are cochineal red A (C.I.16255), patent blueV (C.I.42051), indigotin (C.I.73015), chlorophyllin (C.I.75810),quinoline yellow (C.I.47005), titanium dioxide (C.I.77891), indanthreneblue RS (C.I.69800) and madder lake (C.I.58000). As a luminescent dye,it is also possible for luminol to be present. These dyes arecustomarily used in concentrations of from 0.001 to 0.1% by weight,based on the total mixture.

The total amount of auxiliaries and additives can be 1 to 50% by weight,preferably 5 to 40% by weight, based on the compositions. Thecompositions can be prepared by customary cold or hot processes;preference is given to using the phase-inversion temperature method,

The following examples are illustrative of the invention and should notbe construed in any manner whatsoever as limiting the scope of thepresent invention.

EXAMPLES Example 1 Cosmetic Emulsion

% by Trade name INCI weight Emulgade ® SE-PF⁽²⁾ Glyceryl Stearate (and)Ceteareth-20 6.00 (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetylpalmitate Lanette ® O⁽²⁾ Cetearyl Alcohol 2.50 Cegesoft ® C24⁽²⁾ Ethylhexyl palmitate 6.00 Cetiol ® PGL⁽²⁾ Hexyldecanol (and) Hexyldecyllaurate 5.00 Myritol ® 312⁽²⁾ Caprylic/Capric Trigylceride 3.00 DC200-50cts⁽³⁾ Dimethicone 1.00 Deionized water add 100 Keltrol T⁽⁴⁾Xantham Gum 0.20 Elestab 50J⁽¹⁾ Chlorphenesin (and) Methylparaben 0.40Glycerine 4.00 Carbopol 980⁽⁵⁾ 2% Carbomer 15.00 NaOH 10% 0.60 PerfumeChampalineG10415611⁽⁶⁾ 0.10 Oligopeptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂0.0003

Example 2 Cosmetic Fluid Serum

Trade name INCI % by weight Elestab 50J⁽¹⁾ Chlorphenesin (and) 0.35Methylparaben Oligopeptide H-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂ 0.001 Keltrol CGT⁽⁴⁾Xanthan gum 0.10 Cosmedia SP⁽²⁾ Sodium Polyacrylate 0.25 Deionized Wateradd 100 Suppliers ⁽¹⁾Laboratoires Sérobiologiques; ⁽²⁾Cognis; ⁽³⁾DowCorning; ⁽⁴⁾Kelco; ⁽⁵⁾Noveon, ⁽⁶⁾Robertet

Example 3 Cosmetic Emulsion With AHA

Trade name INCI % by weight I Glycerin 2 Butylene Glycol 1 Veegum Ultra(1) Magnesium Aluminum 0.5 Silicate Rhodicare XC⁽²⁾ Xantham Gum 0.5Elestab CPN⁽³⁾ Chlorophenesin 0.25 Versene powder⁽⁴⁾ Tetrasodium EDTA0.1 Deionized Water add 100 II Eumulgin S2 Steareth-2 2 Eumulgin S21Steareth-21 2 Lanette 18 Stearyl Alcohol 1.5 Cutina MD Glyceryl Stearate3 Eusolex 2292⁽⁵⁾ Ethylhexyl Methoxy- 6 cinnamate Eusolex 9020⁽⁵⁾ ButylMethoxydibenz- 2 oylmethane Cetiol S Diethylhexylcyclo- 5 hexane EutanolG16 Hexyldecanol 3 Eutanol G 3 Octyldodecanol Creasil IH CG⁽⁶⁾Isohexadecane 2 DC 200, 100 cs⁽⁷⁾ Dimethicone 0.75 Generol R⁽³⁾ BrassicaCampestris 0.5 (Rapeseed) Sterols III Deionized Water 15 Photonyl LS⁽³⁾Arginine (and) Di- 1.5 sodium Adenosine Triphosphate (and) Mannitol(and) Py- ridoxine HCl RNA (and) Histidine HCl (and) Phenylalanine (and)Tyrosine IV Dry Flo Plus⁽⁸⁾ Aluminum Starch Oct- 3 enylsuccinate VAHCare G60⁽³⁾ Glycolic acid 10 (and) Aqua (and) Arginine Ammoniac (sol.20.5%) qs pH 3.5 VI Dermosaccharides HC⁽³⁾ Glycerin (and) 2 Aqua (and)Gly- cosaminoglycans (and) Glycogen Powdy Dream 50-3770⁽⁹⁾ 0.15 VIIOligopeptide N-Acetyl-Tyr-Pro-Phe- 0.001 Phe-NH₂ Suppliers (1)Vanderbilt, (2) Rhodia, (3) Laboratoires Sérobiologiques; (4) Brenntag,(5) Merck, (6) Cosmo Chem, (7) Dow Corning, (8) National Starch, (9)Cognis Fragrances

Example 4

Quali-quantitative composition of the Active Ingredient: Ac-YPFF-NH₂(acetyl-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂): 400 ppm in a solution water/glycerol 50/50(w/w) was carried out.

Example 5

Protocol: Sensorial evaluation in vivo on 16 human volunteers of thesoothing effect of an emulsion with 2% Active Ingredient according toexample 4 versus placebo emulsion. The volunteers were trained to detectthe levels of cutaneous sensibility at the heat. During this training,the cutaneous thermal sensitivity is evaluated by measures with “ThermalSensory Analyser” (TSA). At the end of the training, 2 zones weredelimited on the scapular back: one was treated by placebo emulsion andthe other by emulsion with 2% Active Ingredient (a standardizedapplication of 2 μl/cm²). 120 minutes after application of the products,the perception of heat was evaluated by the volunteers according to 2levels: “sensorial discomfort” and “painful”. The results are thesynthesis of the variations of temperatures observed for each level ofsensitivity on the treated zone and the placebo zone.

Composition of the Tested Products

Emulsion with 2% Active Ingredient PHASE A Water Add 100.00 PropyleneGlycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) 2.50 Chlorphenesin (and) MethylparabenCetearyl Isononanoate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Cetearyl 10.00 Alcohol(and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetylPalmitate Xanthan Gum 0.20 Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated 1.20Polydecene (and) PPG-5 Laureth-5 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide 1.00 PHASEB Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3.00 PHASE C Active Ingredient 2.00 Emulsionwithout active ingredient (placebo) PHASE A Water Add 100.00 PropyleneGlycol (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) 2.50 Chlorphenesin (and) MethylparabenCetearyl Isononanoate (and) Ceteareth-20 (and) Cetearyl 10.00 Alcohol(and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) Glycerin (and) Ceteareth-12 (and) CetylPalmitate Xanthan Gum 0.20 Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated 1.20Polydecene (and) PPG-5 Laureth-5 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide 1.00 PHASEB Dicaprylyl Carbonate 3.00 Results Sensorial discomfort Painful (° C.)(° C.) Variations in perception of temperature on the 2.5 ± 0.6 1.7 ±0.4 zone treated with emulsion containing 2% Active Ingredient based onexample 4 (before and 120 minutes after application of the products)(AI) Variations in perception of temperature on the 1.3 ± 0.6 1.2 ± 0.5zone treated with placebo emulsion (before and 120 minutes afterapplication of the products) (PL) Difference: AI − PL 1.3 ± 0.5 0.5 ±0.3

120 minutes after the application of the emulsion with 2% ActiveIngredient and in comparison to the placebo zone, the perception of heatsignificantly decreased for level “discomfort” and “painful”. Theseresults demonstrated a soothing effect 120 minutes after the applicationof the emulsion with 2% active ingredient according to example 4.

1-7. (canceled)
 8. A composition suitable for use in cosmeticapplications, which composition comprises an oligopeptide according toformula (I) and/or (II) of:R₁-Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂  (I)R₁-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂  (II) wherein R₁ is linked to the NH₂-group ofthe amino-terminal portion of Tyr and is selected from the groupconsisting of: a) —H; b) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branchedsaturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, whichacyl group can be functionalized by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH₂ group;and c) a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is linked to the aminoterminal portion of Tyr by a bifunctional linker.
 9. The composition ofclaim 8 wherein the oligopeptide is of formula (I), wherein R₁ is H. 10.The composition of claim 8 wherein the oligopeptide is of formula (II),wherein R₁ is H.
 11. The composition of claim 8 wherein R₁ is —H or alinear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated or unsaturatedacyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
 12. The composition of claim 11wherein the acyl group is acetyl.
 13. The composition of claim 8 whereinthe oligopeptide is present in an amount of from about 0.001 to 1,000ppm based by weight of the composition.
 14. A cosmetic composition whichcomprises: 1) an oligopeptide according to formula (I) and/or (II) of:R₁-Tyr-Pro-Trp-Phe-NH₂  (I)R₁-Tyr-Pro-Phe-Phe-NH₂  (II) wherein R₁ is linked to the NH₂-group ofthe amino-terminal portion of Tyr and is selected from the groupconsisting of: a) —H; b) a linear saturated or unsaturated or branchedsaturated or unsaturated acyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, whichacyl group can be functionalized by a —OH, —SH, —COOH or —CONH₂ group;and c) a sterol or a sphingolipid group which is linked to the aminoterminal portion of Tyr by a bifunctional linker; 2) a cosmetic agent;and 3) optionally, an additive or auxiliary suitable for use in acosmetic composition.
 15. The cosmetic composition of claim 14 whereinthe oligopeptide is of formula (I), wherein R₁ is H.
 16. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 14 wherein the oligopeptide is of formula (II),wherein R₁ is H.
 17. The cosmetic composition of claim 14 wherein R₁ is—H or a linear saturated or unsaturated or branched saturated orunsaturated acyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
 18. The cosmeticcomposition of claim 17 wherein the acyl group is acetyl.
 19. Thecosmetic composition of claim 14 wherein the oligopeptide is present inan amount of from about 0.001 to 1,000 ppm based by weight of thecomposition.
 20. The cosmetic composition of claim 14 wherein thecosmetic agent is an alpha-hydroxy or beta-hydroxy acid or a salt orester thereof.
 21. The cosmetic composition of claim 14 wherein thecosmetic agent is a retinoid.
 22. The cosmetic composition of claim 19wherein the oligopeptide is present in an amount of from about 0.5 to100 ppm.